Countries have a feel to them. Ghana was caked in Christianity as much as the storefronts, that bore names such as Anointed Hands Hair Salon, were covered in dirt and dust. In Togo, it was as if the French influence affected not only the language but everything the air touched as well. Nigeria feels like urban Africa. Definitely not the safari laden land of the east or the tribal village life of National Geographic, but plainly and simply, Africa. With the population and overall conditions of the largest city in Africa comes security concerns. Whether or not the precautions being taken to ensure our squad’s safety are necessary is not the point. The peace that we all have about our security is also not my purpose in writing. The point is that sometimes a reputation is given and other times it’s earned. You decide.
Day One:
Crossing into Nigeria our bus company did an amazing job making sure that we did not have any problems. At one of the last visa checkpoints I was waved into an office, and after some fun small talk about America, the officer asked from something “small small.” He said he’d take anything. Thankfully I had about $2 worth of Togo currency that I wouldn’t be able to spend in Nigeria. (Lesson: Some only see skin deep, but not all.)
Day Two:
Myself and Will Jung entered Nigeria a few days early to set up for Debrief. During this time we had to pull money several times from ATMs to pay for the squad’s food and lodging. (Sidenote: Our cards were temporarily cancelled. Who would have thunk pulling large sums of money repeatedly in Nigeria would raise concerns?) Two pastors were helping us in this process and at one point we gave one of them money to go and deposit it for us. A security officer saw these two Nigerians following us to banks and us handing them money, so they thought something quite natural, “Scam.” After an unfortunate misunderstanding—Nigerians have the tendency to yell at each other, a lot—our reverend was permitted to return home with us. (Lesson: Both meant to protect us.)
Day Three (Morning):
Driving to the Debrief location we came to an impromptu—read entirely unnecessary—police checkpoint. Here they gave our driver, who did not have his driver’s license, quite a difficult time. After getting out of the car, speaking with another officer, and returning with a smile the truth came out. The officer who stopped us was friends with our driver. The officer was upset with our driver for denying him the opportunity to pester us for a bribe. (Lesson: “Police” and “trustworthy” are not synonymous, and not all Nigerians are the same.)
Day Three (Evening):
That evening I went to the airport to pick up team members flying in from Ghana. I have never felt so protected in my life. Accompanying me were two drivers (two different vehicles), a friend of the pastor for security, and an actual security guard hired by the retreat center. (The lack of independence got old after about an hour.) While we were there I was instructed to send 2000 naira ($13) worth of credit to a head police official’s phone in case of any police issues like earlier in the day. Also, when we were leaving the airport the fifteen or so security officials standing around wanted a bribe since they let our van park longer than usual at the curb. Don’t worry AIM, I receipted it all. (Lesson: If traveling to Nigeria, arrive during the day, carry small bills, and four escorts can be good company.)
While it may feel overprotective at times, our contacts have done an amazing job bending backwards to make sure that we are safe in our lodgings and when traveling. Many thanks to them for their generosity.
PS: As a final note, a pastor kindly asked me that I should tell Americans not to accept money that is brought into the US by Nigerians. Oftentimes it is money laundered from Nigeria, which should be staying in the country. Obligation: Fulfilled.
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**Photos compliments of DJ Kelley.
