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The skyline steadily ascended as we approached the city , circling round the rim, past the beautiful Mosque with its domes and spires reaching to the sky, past the office buildings and store fronts. In between the buildings was a view like none I had ever seen before, the city spread out before us in concave levels like a giant bowl of buildings and heaving life. We turned down onto one of the steeply sloped streets and began our decent into the center. Each level having its own distinct character, red roofs, tin roofs, shacks, offices.
Kampala is the capital of Uganda and was the chosen meeting place for the squad. As we wound down the levels deeper into the center we passed streets that could have easily been transplanted from Los Angeles, New York, Hollywood, Long Beach or Century City even Barter town from Mad Max beyond the thunder dome. No cohesion or uniformity, each level obviously striving to be its own version of the city.
As soon as was possible we made our way to the mzungu mall. I am sure there are various markets and shopping centers throughout the city that would have had better and cheaper goods for purchase, but the mzungu mall had something that none of those other markets would have, mzungu food. Almost every group eventually descended upon the mall, using the wifi , eating burgers and quesadillas, milkshakes and brownies all at premium prices of course.
Going to the mall took about 15 minutes by taxi, we had a meeting scheduled at 8pm so we thought that we would arrive with plenty of time by leaving the mall at 7:15pm, what we had not accounted for was the horrendous evening traffic. It took 10 to 15 minutes just to get out of the mall parking lot. In the city our taxi vied for position against trucks, motorcycles and other cabs. There are no traffic lights and only confused and overworked traffic cops who can’t do much to stop the weaving motorcycles or the games of chicken the cars play. Down hills and up hills, through bank districts into post apocalyptic shanty towns and back out again. Down to our hostel about 2/ 3 into the bowl, in a neighborhood we were advised not to walk in even during the day, surrounded by iron gates and concrete walls crowned with
barbed wire , we were late to our meeting.
