As I do life in Bulgaria, I have the unique experience to see past the tourist facade.
I still see the pretty coast of the Black Sea and have visited the Stone Forest (a natural phenomenon of limestone deposits, which could easily be mistaken for ruins, but are more akin to stalagmites, minus the cave). I see the famous Varna Cathedral, the ancient Roman baths, the bakeries and döner shops, and the underwear stores (which they apparently need on every street?).
But I also see the residents. I see families playing at the park and people walking their dogs. I see the sweet old Bulgarian couple, both holding the handle of the same suitcase to walk down the street. I see the city sweepers who work so diligently to keep all of the streets clean. I see these kind hearts, but I cannot paint you an accurate picture that is all roses and daises.
Bulgarian society teems with undertones of their Communist past:
- Little foot traffic after dark as it used to be very dangerous
- Little regard for public property leading to high incidence of vandalism and graffiti
- Little respect for government rules because formerly they were corrupt–for example, businesses commonly cheat taxes
- Little opportunity to know the Lord (their grandparents weren’t allowed to believe so their parents did not believe, so who is to teach them?)
- Little show of emotions because they had to be cautious with every word they spoke
I have never more appreciated the First Amendment right to freedom of speech. Americans get a bad rap for being loud—anyone who knows me knows I am not the stereotypical boisterous drunk, but I can be as expressive as any Joe or Jane. I would not make it in a nation of such oppression where heads must be held low, seldom a smile.
Under reform and on the up and up (though still the poorest country in the European Union), Bulgaria’s grim exterior is, slowly but surely, starting to crack. This excites me.
It means more smiling is allowed.
I grab them when I can and jot them down in my memory, but a blog lasts longer:
- Little smiles from Pavlov, the Second Baptist church administrator with a lazy eye and a heart of gold, as he makes sure there is translation for us at the church services
- Little smiles from the lady at the laundromat as she picks up her cell phone and calls her son to translate to us
- Little smiles from Debbie who invited us to speak in her high school English class for the possibility of sparking students’ interest in Christianity
- Little smiles from Trifanov, the pastor at New Life Church, who teaches us Bulgarian history with such passion and talks of his plans for evangelism with such conviction
- Little smiles from Petya, a fiery red head manicure/pedicurist, who invited us to a benefit concert for charity
- Little smiles from Mariana, a Christian just visiting Varna for vacation, who invited us out for dinner
- Little smiles from 6 year old Teddy—a pretty little girl at the children’s home where the government takes children born with disabilities, with or without parental consent
- Little smiles from the children in the gypsy village on the outskirts of town, taking turns riding their one tricycle down their filthy streets
As I walk down the sidewalk smiling like a fool as we southerners are trained to do, I know I will continue to face blank stares in return. However, during my 3 weeks here I have collected these little smiles and in them I see the promise of something more.
I do believe God is softening the heart of this nation and it is such an honor to be part of His Kingdom plan!!
Revelation 21:5 “And the one sitting on the throne said, “Look, I am making everything new!”
Say Hello to the Black Sea
Debbie and me at the high school right before I spoke to her English class
