When I think back to what I learned about world history in high school, I do not seem to remember ever learning about Pol Pot or a Cambodian genocide. It took me coming to this country, to the capital of Phnom Penh, to finally learn about the tragedy that happened here in the late 70’s. Maybe you are unfamiliar with this event in history, but you shouldn’t be. I saw first hand the realities of this genocide both at the Tuol Sleng prison, formerly a high school, and the Choeung Ek killing fields. This isn’t necessarily the easiest topic to blog about but after seeing these two places and learning more I feel compelled to share with you what I experienced. One can easily do a Google search on this event, and I would suggest you do. Here in this blog I’ll share some of my thoughts from visiting both places…..
Tuol Sleng is situated like many other schools in Phnom Penh in a neighborhood surrounded by shops and houses. There is nothing unique about it that would cause one to be drawn to it. The conversion of Tuol Sleng into a prison was actually a small glimpse of what was happening to the entire country. You see, in 1975 Pol Pot, leader of the Khmer Rouge, forced every person out of the capital city making them return to their native villages. He then set out to execute anyone who stood in the way or was a threat to his vision for a new Cambodia. Tuol Sleng was just one of many schools/buildings that was turned into a prison – for interrogating, torturing and killing thousands of Cambodians – there were over 300 such places around the country. If you wore glasses, had a degree, were a teacher or doctor, you were a threat to the new government and therefore sent to Tuol Sleng or another prison for interrogation, then torture and then execution. Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge set out to destroy the modern day Cambodia and send it back to the agrarian days.
As I walked around the school grounds and in the buildings I could not help but think of Plainfield North HS, the school I have being teaching at the past 8 years. How weird it was to walk in the staircases of Tuol Sleng knowing the tragedies that occurred there; to walk into classrooms and see beds with shackles on them and pictures of those tortured and killed on that very bed; to see how in some of these rooms brick or wooden cells were made to house those thought to be spies or enemies of the rouge before they were taken into an interrogation or torture room. What was once a place of learning, growth, and community was now a place of fear, loneliness and death.
There were over 20,000 Cambodians killed at this high school over the 4 years it was a prison – from 1975-1979. Some of those brought to the prison were not killed there but driven by the truck load to a large area outside of the city known as the killing fields.
This was an unbelievable place to visit….we were given an audio headset that guided us around the grounds.
Honestly, I find it hard to write about this place. So many stories and facts were shared with us about it that I was overwhelmed leaving. Thousands of Cambodians were executed here….but the methods of killing did not involve bullets, as those were too expensive. No, these people were tortured and killed with farming tools, trees, starvation, and swords.
An example of a mass grave and the remains found there
Note the sign by the tree….”Killing tree in which executors beat children”
In commemoration for those who had died, a stupa, or monument, was built to house the remains found in the mass graves.
Remains of those killed here….skulls and other bones are housed within the stupa
After seeing both of these places I will say that my view of the Cambodian people has changed…many whom I see walking the streets, who have sold me pineapple or sandwiches off their food cart have in some way been affected by the genocide. Over 2 million people were killed during the Khmer Rouge (Pol Pots government). The country is moving forward, making strides to reclaim that which was lost and taken from them. A new generation is rising up and graduating from college, joining the work force and looking to make their country, which they love, better!
What a great month in Cambodia it was….so grateful to have spent a month with such kind and hospitable people!! My time there will not be forgotten!
Onward to Nepal…
Lauren
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