There’s an expression in Serbian that I learned today.
Spolja gladac, iznutra jadac.
Direct translation: Dandy outside, wishbone inside.
So the direct translation is not very useful to us English speakers… But the expression is used to describe how something is beautiful on the outside, yet on the inside it is empty. Pastor Nesha used it in his sermon about the Parable of the Weeds (Matthew 13:24-30, 36-43) but to me, it held more weight than just its value in that sermon.
See, there is a church in Belgrade. And by church I mean it is a beautiful temple slash cathedral slash lavish building built to display the glory of God. Here in Serbia they use the term hram. And since I don’t know the English equivalent used to describe such a magnificent Orthodox church, hram will have to do.
(sidenote on the Serbian language: the h and r put together make that cgh sound in the back of your throat sort of like the r in French but with a little more emphasis. This sound is also used in the word hvala which means ‘thank you’ just with a softer f sound)
So, there is a hram in Belgrade that is stunning. It’s name is Sveti Sava (Saint Sava). Not only is it quite massive but it is also built on a higher elevation so that everywhere in the city you can see it rising above the skyline of apartments. We are lucky enough to have a direct view of the hram from the balcony of our flat. And the bells of the hram ring at every hour in the least. Point being; there is no escaping its splendor in Belgrade.
And when you walk up close to the hram, you have the fortunate opportunity of noticing its subtle yet extraordinary details. The exterior is made of a white marble tile bringing it a clean and youthful façade. The edges of the walls seem to flaunt a similar green style of marble. And it is architecturally designed by a collaboration of domes. The domes themselves are made of what looks like copper, solidifying a magnificent fresh green shade after years of weather. And each dome is seemingly suspended by a circle of arched windows with soft stained glass that doesn’t draw attention to themselves, but rather adds to the beauty as a whole. And on the very top of the highest dome is a poignant gold cross, reaching to the heavens.
In the words of our host Remi, the hram has an “extraordinary way of making one feel utterly insignificant.” And he is absolutely right. But in that, it is a simple and minor representation of the infinite splendor of our Lord. Which is why I can’t help but stare at it and be in awe every time it is in my line of sight.
Needless to say, I was expecting the same splendor when I finally had the time to venture inside the hram. But immediately as I stepped inside the dark space and allowed my eyes to adjust from the blinding sunlight, my heart sank. The hram was nearly empty.
Before I continue, I have two disclaimers:
1. They are working on the hram to continue renovation and so there was scaffolding in some areas and other areas were completely blocked off for construction
And 2. I don’t remember specifics about the Great Schism back in the day but I do recall that one outcome is that the Orthodox branch of Christianity is noticeably less lavish than the Catholic branch. And I’m sure this plays a huge part into the design of Orthodox hrams versus Catholic cathedrals.
But even taking those notes into consideration, the inside of the hram just seemed desolate and forgotten. The floor was hard and cold made of cement or stone. But it wasn’t arranged in tiles or another systematic lay, it was just there. Like something you would find outside in the city. They had some paintings here and there, one gold cross close to the entrance, and towards the left side of the interior there was a more decorated section with red curtains and again more paintings of significant people to the church. Also there were tables of sand placed for the purpose of lighting candles for prayers, this was my favorite part of the interior. But the majority of the inside was empty. In fact, a velvet rope cut across half of the hram so that churchgoers could only stay on the side by the entrance.
Again, with my previous disclaimers in mind, I wasn’t disappointed by the lack of splendor found inside the hram. I was just taken aback by its aura of lifelessness. It felt dead inside. And depressing. And that broke my heart.
And I thought to myself how this analogy, of the physical church to the spiritual one, is rather disturbingly accurate in some cases. I thought of how religion can look so beautiful from the outside but on the inside, it is found to be empty. How many churches in this world lose sight of the truth set by God? How many are without the life that Jesus brings and forget to follow the direction of the Spirit? And how many times do people approach the church, truly seeking something higher, only to be discouraged that they couldn’t find what they were looking for? Because they’re all looking for the love that their Creator offers. And I took this thought as a warning from God, “do not let your faith become empty… do not stop seeking the life that I bring… know me.”
My heart broke a little that day. Because the world is dark, even in places where light is supposed to be abundant. But it further solidified my purpose in being sent out by God.
“You are the light of the world. A city set on a hill cannot be hidden. Nor do people light a lamp and put it under a basket, but on a stand, and it gives light to all in the house. In the same way, let your light shine before others, so that they may see your good works and give glory to your Father who is in heaven.” –Matthew 5:14-16
Thus I pray for the hram. Because there were many people there truly seeking Christ and His love. I pray that again the church will be wonderfully filled with life and life abundant. John 10:10. And that those seeking Him will be blessed and filled by the Spirit. And I pray that as the church is filled again, it will become an extraordinary light to all of Belgrade as it sits on its hill, spreading the glory of God throughout the whole city.
Spolja gladac, iznutra jadac.
Maybe for now, but not for long…
Isaiah 57:14-21
