Just a few days ago…
During the time we got to Costa Rica
and before we left to go to our ministry locations, some of us
decided to check out the beach. We took a bus about four hours away
from San Jose to the coast to a beach called Quepos. It was very
beautiful, and the weather was perfect! I went with eight other
wonderful people from my squad. It was the most fun I’ve had in a
long time, and if you know me that’s saying a lot for just going to
the beach. Beaches aren’t my favorite places; actually I really
don’t like them at all. But this time, for some reason, it was
different.
Maybe it’s because I went SURFING for
the first time!!! It was so incredible! First of all, I never thought
in my entire life I would be going surfing. Second, I never thought I
would actually enjoy it. Getting into the ocean is a big step for me
in general, let alone getting that far in with waves and such.
Surfing is harder than it looks. It’s very exhausting, and it is
hard to get the balance of staying on your board when you’re
waiting for a wave to come. But once I got that down I was doing
pretty well. I caught a few waves riding on my knees, and half way
stood up a few times before the wave came crashing over me. Tossing
and turning under the water I had to tell myself-“Ok, don’t freak
out…you’ll see the top of the water in a few seconds. Then up I
would come gasping for air, laughing, and yelling-“THAT WAS
AWESOME!!”-then ready to go back out and try it again. Now I know
why surfing is such a popular pastime. The adrenaline rush is enough
in itself. Plus it’s a pretty intense workout. Besides the bruises
on my hipbones and chest I didn’t get injured-unlike Danny that got
hit in the head with his board.
Surfing is one of my new favorite
things to do. Maybe one day I’ll live on the beach somewhere.
