Many of you know I love to be active and play sports. I’ve tried lots of different sports before and as of yesterday, I can include surfing. Honestly, I didn’t think I would do too well. Let’s just say, I don’t really have the gift of good balance. My friends and family know that I can lose my balance just walking, but I was ready to try. Yesterday was a beautiful sunny morning and we walked down to the beach. We met a man named Edgar who was more than willing to charge us only $10 for a wetsuit, board, lessons, and 2 hours of surfing. The first challenge was putting on the wetsuit. I have never worn one before and honestly, I don’t think I would want to again, but I guess they do serve an important purpose.
Edgar gave us serve lessons – how to lay on the board, what to do when small waves come, what to do when big waves come, and how to “pop-up.”
Edgar lined me up with a long board and I was ready to go.
I began paddling out in the water and soon realized that surfing takes a lot of arm muscle…that I don’t have. My shoulders were getting sore on the first paddle out and that was with Edgar pushing me from behind. I got out there and began trying my attempt at surfing. I got tired very fast and after a few tries I decided I should just go in. I had stood up once and I was okay with that. I told Edgar of my plan and he said, “No, two more times.” I said okay. Then, I was hooked. I was starting to get it and I was having so much fun that I didn’t realize my body was exhausted. I was able to stand up many times and lasted for a little while before losing my balance and diving off into the wave.
I am so thankful that he encouraged me to keep going. I was proud of myself and satisfied with my progress in the hour and a half that I was out there. I hope to go again before we leave.
